BELEM
BELEM
Named for the historic coastal city in Portugal, it was inspired by a great-smelling bay hedge across from the marina, the salty sea air and feeling of being near the water, and by the wonderful vanillia custard Pastéis de Belém. It’s also the kind of zesty, spicy, rich and slightly aquatic fragrance a man who moors his yacht there might wear, assuming he has taste as well as money and a yacht. Opens with tropical citrus notes piqued with pink pepper, warmed and strengthened by clove, bay, guaiacwood and cedar, accented throughout by a subtle aquatic freshess and soft jasmine notes. This is fairly strong stuff but has a sunny, natural warmth, freshness and dry-woody richness that keep it from becoming a typical citrus-aquatic (and it doesn’t contain calone). Wears especially well in summer heat and humidity but because of the lasting vanilla, woody and floral qualities it’s great in cooler weather also.
Notes include lime, bergamot, bay, basil, lemongrass, pink pepper, jasmine, clove, lily of the valley, balsams, cedar, guaiacwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, tonka, vanilla and sea air.
“I've found another favorite with Belem. I instinctively gravitate toward opulent fall notes, but Florida heat is a bear. So I've increasingly turned toward compositions that work in the heat (but aren't one-note wonders). Belem is well behaved, but breezy. I get little hints of it when I move. And I was pretty surprised to smell it in the morning, a full 24 hours later on skin. I would never guess something so refreshing and breezy would be so tenacious.
”Another citrus-led opening, in this case a low pitched lime cordial with dry spice led by nutmeg with just a hint of vanilla. A wood blend fills out the bottom of the opening. There is the lightest smidge of calone, often a deal killer for me, but so very blended and restrained in this case. The heart has floralcy, with jasmine coming in. At 2-1/2 hours, I noted a slight anisic basil. The spice is continuous from the start, evoking spices wafting up from the hold of a ship. Even a smidge of cumin at one point. I feel like there's more to discover here. In addition to the listed notes, I very much get a black tea effect, reminiscent of Penhaligon's Lothair. At hour 6, I get a parchment quality, and I feel like labdanum plays a role. Skews masculine to me. Really lovely.” - johnnyangel, Basenotes
[note: there’s no calone nor any typical marine chems in Belem, that effect is from an original combination of materials]
